Jersey Journey
Did you ever buy a pattern for an ‘advanced beginner’ and wonder just what exactly an advanced beginner even is? As odd and unspecific as that title maybe I think that is how I categorize myself. Very much still a beginner in this world of sewing but at the same time, I have some successful projects under my belt. So in the spirit of self-improvement, I decided to venture out of my comfort zone. There are many many techniques and materials that intimidate me still but it’s time to move on from sewing almost exclusively with quilting cotton. Today we’ll be on a stretchy jersey journey as I tell you about my adventures (and mistakes) sewing with jersey.
So What is Jersey?
Jersey is the most common type of knit fabric. In it’s simplest terms jersey is a stretchy fabric. If you’re wearing a t-shirt strong chance that shirt is made of jersey. But of course, this is sewing so if you start looking into things they get incredibly complex with all the types and varieties of knit or jersey fabric that are available. However, those do not fall under the ‘advanced beginner’ umbrella of need-to-know information. All I need to know is that this fabric is stretchy and quilting cotton is not. Keep-It-Simple is my philosophy.
As I am sure you can imagine there are unique challenges to sewing with a fabric that stretches. The reason I think I am so intimidated by jersey fabric is from those first few failed attempts. This blog post is by no means an extensive deep dive into sewing with jersey but it is my journey with a few tips I’ve learnt along the way.
Bless the Overlocker
As much as I would like to paint myself as a fearless sewing adventurer the real reason I decided to give sewing with jersey another try is that my Mom’s lovely friend gave us an Overlocker. If there wasn’t an unused overlocker staring at me while I sewed I don’t think I would have ever attempted to sew stretch fabric again. But there it was, looking all sad not being used. An Overlocker (or a Serger) is a machine that sews up a seam while also trimming and binding the edge. It is an absolute game-changer. Now, can you sew with jersey without an overlocker? Absolutely you can. It is non-essential but makes the process a bit more foolproof. As an impatient and impetuous sewist it really helped me on the jersey journey I was on.
If you don’t have an overlocker make sure you have a stretch needle or a double-needle for your sewing machine, use a zig-zag stitch, and adjust the pressure of the machines foot if needs be. These steps will decrease the number of times you want to pull your hair out because the fabric has jammed.
So Much Thread, So little patience
Even as an advanced beginner setting up the overlocker was a daunting task. For the first time in my life, I actually pulled out a manual and read it through. That’s a lie I only read it until I was mostly sure things were working. But that is still a big deal for me. Yeah, turns out this is a very time effective and informative way to live your life. Once you actually read through instructions telling you exactly how to set up and thread the machine it’s quite easy and not scary at all. Who would have thought? Not me. (This is where you can roll your eyes at my idiocy) In summary, my advice is to just listen to the advice of someone qualified and not this idiot.
Gathering Supplies for the Jersey Journey
Shopping the jersey section of my local fabric store was both exciting and confusing but I walked away with some lovely options. I bought 1 yard of the mustard yellow fabric, 2 yards of the polka dot and floral jersey and 3.5 of the navy blue. My tip would just make sure you would want to wear a garment made out of the fabric you buy. Some of the options were scratchy and I personally wouldn’t find them comfortable to wear. There’s no use taking the time to sew a piece of clothing if you are going to hate the fabric it’s made of. Depending on the material being used jersey fabric can vary drastically in price. For example, the floral print was around $5 a yard while the navy blue was closer to $20. There are definitely some nice options if you don’t want to spend a lot of money for your first dip into sewing jersey. All three jersey fabrics I bought were soft and comfy.
So, now I have my fabric, whats next? Like I said before I was not overflowing with confidence that this would go well for me so I didn’t want to waste money buying patterns I might not ever use again. Luckily there are many fantastic and free sewing patterns for stretch fabrics. Biggest win on the jersey journey! To maximize the fabric my plan was to find a couple of larger patterns and then some smaller ones to use up the scrap ends of fabric. The intention is to minimize fabric waste and fully put the overlocker to the test.
Peppermint Jersey Dress
Cost: FREE
Where to get it: PEPPERMINT MAGAZINE
First pattern up and the one that will use the most fabric is the Peppermint Jersey Dress. Peppermint Magazine comes out with a free pattern every three months. To access the patterns you just need to sign up with your email address. Peppermint Magazine is, in my opinion, the best resource for beginner sewist and advanced beginners alike. Their patterns are easy to follow and create beautiful garments. The Jersey dress is no exception. Now, the photos of the humble jersey dress may not be the most eye-catching garment on the website but never the less the dress is an absolute dream to wear. Overall this garment is straight forward and easy to sew. If you wanted to make the process even easier you could exclude the pockets to avoid sewing curved edges. But come on, a dress with pockets! Is there anything better? I bought 3.5 yards for this dress and made the size WHAT SIZE. This did leave a ton of fabric left over so you could probably get away with purchasing less.
No exaggeration I am living in this dress! It fits beautifully and is loose but still flattering. The bamboo jersey I bought is warm which is perfect since it’s now dark and damp out almost every waking minute of every day. The only time I’m not wearing this is when it’s in the wash. I’m already planning out more Peppermint Jersey Dresses in other colours! Also if you feel so inclined to hack this pattern you can make a lovely sweatshirt. (You may need to add some inches onto the back piece to make sure it meets up evenly with the front piece.) By far the most lovely project and makes me so happy I embarked on this jersey journey.
Tessuti Fabric Monroe Turtleneck
Cost: FREE
Where to get it: TESSUTI FABRIC
The Tessutti Fabric Monroe Turtleneck is a bit of a cult classic. Now that I’ve made one I can totally see why. I’ve gone a bit overboard and made several. They are so quick and easy to whip up. I can’t help myself. I used the Overlocker for the majority of the seams but finished these tops with my regular sewing machine fitted with a double needle. A word of caution, double needles bend and break very easily! I’m already terrible at breaking needles. However these double needles cost around $10 each. So be very gentle with them. I got very frustrated when my threads got bunched up and yanked my projects out of the sewing machine. Lesson learnt because the needle immediately bent and wouldn’t work properly. Shortly after it snapped in half. With a humble attitude and an emptier wallet, I fitted another needle and got back to work.
I want to try another with half the length of the neck portion. Just my personal preference because everything else is lovely. If you want to sew with jersey this is a great first project. Everything is very straightforward and easy to follow. Love styling these with my Yanta Overalls! I made the Monroe in this polka dot fabric as well as the bright floral print.
Helen’s Closet Luna Tank
Cost: FREE
Where to get it: HELEN’S CLOSET
I’m a little obsessed with Helen’s Closet Patterns. I’ve made the Yanta Overalls so many times and I love every pair. When I found out she had a FREE jersey pattern I knew I had to make it! Perhaps not exactly the season for tank tops but OH WELL I’M MAKING IT ANYWAYS! This pattern had two views and is a great project for leftover fabric you may have from some of the larger patterns on this list. I will say this pattern I did find the most challenging project on the jersey journey since the arm and neck bands were quite small and a little tricky to work with. Even so it was a very enjoyable process to make and not too tricky if you use your iron and take your time. If you check out Helen’s Instagram she has a story with so many great tips and a step-by-step guide to help you sew your own Luna Tank.
Admittedly this one won’t be getting much wear until summer but boy am I excited to wear it then. I love the flow and drape of this shirt. Big princess energy! I did a few twirls for sure.
Big Scraps
As I said before I wanted to make the most of every inch of fabric I purchased. So to use up the scraps that weren’t large enough to make a big piece of clothing from. Some great projects for larger scraps of jersey or knit fabric are:
Once you’ve exhausted the larger scraps and made yourself some fancy pants underwear and a cosy TOQUE you may still have some little scraps left over. On my one-woman battle against fabric waste, I’ve found a couple of patterns that can be salvaged from those last little fabric scraps. After all why not make the absolute most of this jersey journey.
Conclusion to the Jersey Journey
Extremely thankful to be given an overlocker, recently I’ve completely lost my sewing motivation, and this has reignited my joy for sewing. Honestly, if I knew then what I know now I’d give sewing jersey with my regular sewing machine another go. With a bit of patience it’s definitely manageable and there are lots of great tutorials available online. Sewing with jersey knits is a game-changer and opens up so many sewing opportunities. The comfort of stretchy clothes cannot be beaten. My me mades have, in the past, been more out-and-about clothes. I’m loving having me mades to lounge around my house in. Perhaps that’s what has helped me get my sewing motivation back. It’s difficult to sew clothes for that ‘unknown but definitely sometime in the future maybe’ time when covid will be a thing of the past. But it’s actually quite easy and enjoyable to sew clothes for the current homebound covid reality we live in.
Hope you enjoyed this jersey journey I went on and it inspires you to get out of your comfort zone and try something new.
-Hannah
If you’d like some more out-and-about clothes check out the last sewing blog post I made.
