Thinking About … Intaglio

Thinking About … Intaglio

I’m realizing I might have a little obsession with jewellery. There is something beautiful about looking back throughout history and seeing people create gorgeous things. Maybe this is giving jewellery too much credit. However, I like the idea that alongside building tools and practical items humans also built beautiful things. While there are real-world things we need we also need creativity and beauty. This month’s jewellery fixation is Intaglio.

 

WHAT IS INTAGLIO?

 

81.AN.76.36 Engraved Scaraboid with Aphrodite Riding a Goose about 400 B.C. Getty Museum
Engraved Scaraboid with Aphrodite Riding a Goose circa 400 B.C. Getty Museum (81.AN.76.36)

 

Intaglio comes from the Italian word intagliare which means ‘to incise’ or ‘to carve’. In terms of jewellery, intaglio refers to semi-precious stones that have designs carved into them leaving a hollow impression. Think of the opposites of cameos that have a risen design. These pieces date back thousands of years and were made in different places all across the globe. 

 

Hellenistic gold finger-ring oval bezel with large garnet intaglio. 323BC-31BC British Museum (1872,0604.159)
Hellenistic gold finger-ring oval bezel with large garnet intaglio. 323BC-31BC British Museum (1872,0604.159)

WHAT IS INTAGLIO MADE OF?

 

Common materials used for the making of Intaglio pieces were carnelian, lapis lazuli, agate, jasper, chalcedony,  amethyst, and garnet. The process used to engrave these stones was the same back in antiquity as is used today. Metal tools are used with an abrasive powder to cut into the gemstones.

 

1978,1002.733 Gold brooch with a central sapphire cameo head of Medusa. Circa 1870 from the workshop of Castellani.
Gold brooch with a central sapphire cameo head of Medusa. Circa 1870 from the workshop of Castellani. British Museum (1978,1002.733)

 

While some intaglio rings were used as seals others were just ornaments or to denote different affiliations. I love the idea that people ignored the practical application of these pieces and just had some made for purely aesthetic purposes.

 

Gold and Amethyst Intaglio ring circa 1st-2nd Century. Image from 'Jewels of the Ancient World.'
Gold and Amethyst Intaglio ring depicting Pan circa 1st-2nd Century. Image from ‘Jewels of the Ancient World.’

GET YOUR OWN PIECES

 

As you can imagine acquiring a piece of antiquity is expensive when even possible. However, you can get contemporary pieces of Intalgio from craftspeople who make them today. If those pieces are still out of your price range Etsy has quite a few beautiful pieces that are made of carved glass rather than semi-precious gemstones. Here are a few of my favourite options available.

 

 

This ring is glass and comes in a couple of metal options. It makes me think of a beautiful ancient piece of jewellery that was the possession of a magical mermaid. Or perhaps it’s a lost piece from the city of Atlantis. As Anne Shirley would say it has scope for the imagination.

 

Get it Here: Aqua Glass Intaglio Ring (Etsy)

 

 

Intaglio Necklace

 

I love that this piece is a little more neutral, you know in case you don’t want to channel your inner mermaid. The brown of this pendant is delectable. It’s glass as well and comes in silver and gold options.

 

Get it Here: Peacock Venetian Glass Intaglio Pendant

 

 

Intaglio Ring

 

I chose this piece because I just love bees aesthetically. I love actual bees as well but jewellery bees don’t sting you. Of all the pieces I’ve included to purchase for yourself this one feels the most like a historic piece of Intalgio jewellery. 

 

Get it Here: Intalgio Bee Ring (Etsy)

 

Hope you’ve enjoyed this very brief look into Intaglio jewellery! There are so many beautiful pieces across literal centuries of history. If you’ve liked this post definitely read the links below to learn more!

 

My Resources:

North Carolina Museum of Art: Friends of Greek Art Lecture:Alibi ars,alibi materia: An Introduction to Greek & Roman Engraved Gems

Getty Museum: The Art of Gem Carving

Getty Museum Intaglio Collection

Sotheby’s The A-Z of Jewelry: I is for… Intaglio

British Museum Intaglio Collection

 

 

-Hannah 

(P.s. If you want to read more of me geeking out over jewellery check this out: Thinking About.. Posy Rings)